Fact: Appaloosa markings are hard.
Spots, dots, speckles, freckles, etc etc etc.... the loud pattern is tedious and requires expert control of your medium. Hours upon hours painting on spots... or painting on the white around spots... fudging up here and there and covering it with more spots. Not to mention the huge cost of hiring an artist to do appaloosa finish work - you are certainly paying a premium for their time and patience! These are certainly the main reasons why I don't have appaloosa's in my resin collection.
It's Namopaimo and in the spirit of doing something new, different, and groundbreaking; let's talk about liquid frisket!
Liquid Frisket
"Liquid frisket for use on watercolour papers, photos, etc" it says on the back of my bottle of Misket. I'm sure the etc is referring to model horses, because this product is wonderful. Liquid frisket is essentially liquid latex that can be brushed onto your model to mask areas you don't want painted. This will not affect your finish work under the mask, it will only block out where you don't want the next layer! So if you have a base colour of bay and paint on some liquid frisket, then paint on white, by gently rubbing your model, your spots will appear! As mentioned, the brand I'm using is Misket, and I find this one grips the model really well and really holds the mask well.
Caution: If you have a latex allergy, this will affect you! Do not use this product if you have a latex allergy!
How To Use Liquid Frisket
This technique requires you to finish your base coat first. If you want a bay appaloosa, make your horse bay first. If you want chestnut spots, paint your horse chestnut, etc. The reason is that you will be painting on the white over your base
It is best to do your whites with acrylic or gauche. Do not seal over your masked out layers or as you peel away your masking, you will take some finish with you.
Dip your paintbrush into your frisket pot, (do not pour out into another container or it will dry faster) and gently dab on where you want your spots. Be relatively generous, this product won't run down your model.
If you mess up, wait a few minutes then gently rub off the liquid frisket to start over. Easiest to do this wearing rubber gloves.
Using someone else's tutorial on how to do the perfect white markings (I can't figure it out for the life of me, paint your model over in white, even over the areas you masked off. Do not put too much paint or you will have raised textured areas (especially in smaller scale).
It's best to only do about 2 layers of white (while its still just a little streaky and not finished. Let dry and then rub off your masking.
Now you can carefully paint around the spots with white so you can get the hair-by-hair details and halos that you want.
Finish those eyes and hooves and seal! You're done!
Now, didn't that save you a few hours? Also, its infinitely satisfying to peel off that masking!
For the more visual learner, here's a step by step with photos of my last years Namopaimo horse, Takoyaki! Note: I suck at white markings.
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